No. of Recommendations: 14
A number of people have asked for the chapter on Japan. That's a big chuck to swallow at over 100 pages, but in re-reading it, Tokyo alone is over 20 pages. As with most major cities, explaining how to see it is a complex issue.
So I decided to see how short a reasonable summary could be crafted. So, as an experimental introduction to the chapter, I jettisoned all the extraneous stuff (flea markets, restaurants, hotels, social attitudes, etc.) and brought it down to the bare bones.
Let me know what you think:
Jeff
Tokyo, Japan
“Did you ever notice that the first piece of luggage on the carousel never belongs to anyone?” ― Erma Bombeck
Based on a volume of information collected across multiple trips to Tokyo, this chapter has grown rather long and detailed. As an experiment, the following few pages are a summary (the more detailed version follows):
Tokyo Arrival & Port Logistics
• In 2023, our ship arrived at Tokyo International Cruise Terminal (not the more common Yokoyama dock). If you land here, note the clear signage at the taxi line for any passengers brought to the wrong terminal.
• Getting Downtown:
• Walk 500 meters to Tokyo International Cruise Terminal Station (Yurikamome Line "U-08"), a driverless train.
• Ride to Shimbashi Station (390 yen), where you must transfer—exit the station and re-enter Yamanote Loop Line or Ginza Line.
• A 1-day Yurikamome pass covers you from Odaiba (with stops like the Gundam statue and Marine Science Museum) to Shimbashi, via Rainbow Bridge.
Transit Tips
• Tokyo’s subway system is vast, with multiple companies and several types of tickets and cards (PASMO, SUICA, ICOCA, etc.). IC cards cost 500 yen plus fare and cover almost all trains/buses, as well as payment in convenience stores.
• Despite complex ownership, transit is clean, safe, and efficient. Staff often help lost travelers and can escort the disabled.
• Single-fare rides are straightforward; system and English maps at hotels help. Good online navigation tools include Hyperdia, Navitime, and Google Maps.
• Traveling by Train: The JR Yamanote Line is a circular route connecting central neighborhoods. For city exits/entries, Tokyo Station can be overwhelming, so check which side (like Yaesu Central) you need for your hotel.
Cultural Insights
• Japanese politeness often means never saying “no” directly; listen carefully for nuance.
• Price negotiation is limited but may yield a discount or gift in markets.
• Exchanging business cards precedes bowing or handshakes to define relative status.
• Streets are remarkably clean, yet public trash bins are rare—be ready to hold onto trash.
• Mask-wearing when ill is common courtesy.
• Crime rates are low; it’s safe to store valuables at the front desk of most hotels.
Hotel Experience
• Stayed at Super Hotel Lohas Tokyo-eki Yaesu Chuo-guchi, a clean, modern, budget-friendly hotel near Tokyo Station.
• Rooms are compact but thoughtfully designed (PIN code entry, modern bath fixtures, heated toilet seats, high-speed Wi-Fi).
• Enjoy amenities like a pillow library, yukata robes, and onsen baths (with guided etiquette and gender-segregation).
• The staff are exceptionally attentive and go above and beyond for guests—even researching custom requests like flea markets.
• Breakfasts at neighborhood fruit shops, such as Kyobashi Sembikiya, provide surprisingly affordable and high-quality meals.
Sightseeing Highlights
Getting Oriented
• Each neighborhood offers a unique experience. Tokyo feels both familiar and “alien” with its culture, scale, and infrastructure.
Key Districts & Attractions
• Tokyo Station & Ginza:
• Upscale shopping, department stores (Matsuya, Mitsukoshi), gourmet basement food halls.
• Try Paul Bakery for French pastries, and Kyobashi Sembikiya for a luxury breakfast.
• Asakusa:
• Visit Sensoji, Tokyo’s oldest temple, Kaminarimon Gate, Nakamise Dori (souvenir street), and Chingodo Shrine.
• Arrive by river boat for a dramatic entrance or use subway/taxi if early.
• Sample local snacks, especially green tea ice cream.
• Enjoy free Goodwill guided tours (no tipping/custom tours available), and visit observation decks at Asakusa Culture Tourist Center for panoramic views.
• Tsukiji Market:
• World-famous wholesale fish market, busiest early mornings for tuna auctions (tickets are first-come, first-serve and run out quickly).
• Popular for sushi breakfasts, though queues can be very long.
• Akihabara:
• Electronics, anime, manga paradise—massive mega-stores like Yodobashi Camera, themed cafes, gaming centers.
• Unique, niche goods abound, but many items cost more than in the U.S.
• Harajuku & Shibuya:
• Youth culture, cosplay, quirky boutiques, Daiso 100-yen shops, Takeshita Dori for fast fashion.
• Meiji Jingu Shrine: classic Shinto shrine with beautiful gardens; don’t miss the saki and wine barrel displays.
• Try Zakuzaku pastries—custard-filled, cronut-like treats.
• Yanaka & Ueno:
• Yanaka’s old temples, cemeteries, artisan shops, and historic streets contrast lively Ameya Yokocho market near Ueno Station.
• Ueno Park: museums, monuments, folk dance events, and Ueno Zoo.
• National Museum: top spot for Japanese history and art.
• Kappabashi:
• The best street for restaurant/kitchenware shopping in Japan. Kitchen knives—expensive, but unparalleled in quality; also find plastic food models, tableware, and more.
Experiences & Events
• Festivals:
• Matsuri festival in Asakusa: vibrant parades with floats, costumes, drummers, and a sea of people.
• Shopping & Food:
• Department store basements are food meccas—try samples and find every cuisine.
• Specialized restaurants abound—ramen, tempura (note: batter style can be softer than in the U.S.), sushi, yakitori, and world-class patisseries.
• Massage & Relaxation:
• “Refresh Hands” in Tokyo Station offers high quality massage at reasonable prices.
Practical Advice
• Getting to/from Narita Airport:
• Options: Airport Limousine Bus (about 1,000 yen), taxi (expensive), JR Narita Express (1 hour/3,000 yen), or JR Sobu Line (slower, but cheaper).
• For less crowded boarding, catch the bus from Ginza station rather than Tokyo Station.
• Cash & Shopping:
• Credit cards increasingly accepted, but cash remains essential for smaller or local places.
• VAT can often be deducted at point of sale for foreigners—don’t forget to ask.
Free & Guided Tours
• Tokyo Systemized Goodwill Club/Greeters: Free, volunteer-led walking tours of Tokyo neighborhoods and parks. No tips allowed; client pays only their own expenses.
• Check local tourist offices for maps, advice, and DIY tour options.
Final Thoughts
• Tokyo is massive, complex, and rich in both historic and hyper-modern experiences.
• It’s one of the world’s safest, most organized, and most fascinating cities—comfortable for travelers yet always full of surprises.
• With a little planning and curiosity, you’ll find something for every mood, budget, and taste.
