No. of Recommendations: 3
We just returned from 5 weeks in Nice and Paris. It was wonderful. I offer here some thoughts about Nice (where we stayed for 3 weeks) that may be of use to you. I'll try to do the same regarding Paris soon. :-)
GETTING AROUND
Unless you have lots of luggage, the Line 2 tram is the quick, cheap way to get from the airport into the city center, which is about 5 miles away. Be aware that the machines at the airport sell tram tickets at a rip-off "tourist" rate. To avoid it, take the tram to the Grand Arenas stop, which is a free ride, and get off and buy a ticket there from the machine (costs about 2 Euros). Then catch the next tram. They run, like, every 4 minutes.
Be sure to validate your ticket on the tram using the validation machine to avoid a possible on-the-spot fine from transit police, who target trams going from/to the airport.
If you plan to visit nearby cities and towns, which I highly recommend, you'll probably want to buy a Sud Azur Explore pass of a duration that fits your needs. It covers unlimited rides on trams, trains, and buses (of multiple operators). You can get one from some machines at the main train station (we used the one near the Zou office, where a staff person is often on hand to assist, or at the travel agent office kitty-corner from the station at 17 Ave. Thiers.
Google Maps works fine to help you figure out how to get around on public transport, but if you want in-depth info--and the ability to top up your transit card right from your phone--download the two Lignes d'Azur apps, one for "info" and one for "tickets." (We did that.) Validate your pass every time on public transit.
FOOD
Restaurants we enjoyed include: Indian Lounge, Ikaro, Lavomatique, Le Banthai (music on Sundays), and Carpe Diem--all in the Old City. Reservations, which can typically be done online, are advised at most of these. None of these are fancy places. Apéro hour is a must, on a bistro terrace anytime between 4 and 6-ish. Nomad was our go-to place, less hectic than in Place Rosetti and a friendly boss. Gelato shops are everywhere, and the quality is typically very good.
PLACES TO VISIT IN NICE
Nice is much more than the Old City, which is where most tourists congregate and which can get very crowded in peak season and on weekends. We explored neighborhoods around Port Lympia, the shopping district along Ave Jean Medicin, the Libération market a few blocks north of the train station, Place Garibaldi, Rue Bonaparte (lots of restaurants and bars), and more. All of it is quite safe; just use common sense.
The miles-long promenade and seaside are simply wonderful, as are the morning markets at Cours Saleya, just off the prom in the Old City.
The art museums in Nice are excellent, both in terms of the art on display and the museums themselves. All are easily accessible by bus and/or tram. We visited Musée Chagall, Musée Matisse, and the Musée d'Art Naïf Anatole Jakovsky. The last one involves a bit of a walk from the Fabron tram station, but it's well worth it. It contains perhaps the most significant collection of international naive art in the world.
NEARBY TOWNS AND VILLAGES
Among the mountain villages between Nice and Monaco, Èze Village gets all of the tourist attention, but La Turbie is more interesting, more beautiful, and far less crowded. In addition to its stunning vistas, interesting streets and churches, excellent bakery, and assortment of good dining options, La Turbie is the site of the Trophy of the Alps, a massive limestone monument erected by the Romans in 7 BC to honor Caesar Augustus’s defeat of the Gallic tribes. The people of La Turbie were uniformly welcoming and helpful.
After we’d finished in La Turbie, we took a 20-minute bus ride down twisting roads to Monaco, where we roamed around for a bit as the Principality was busily (and noisily) preparing for the iconic Monaco Grand Prix. With all respect to the creator of our wonderful Shrewd'm site, I confess that the charms of Monaco eluded me. We took the train from Monte Carlo back to Nice.
The mountain village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence is less than an hour’s trip by train and bus from Nice. Although it dates to medieval times, it became famous in the 20th century as the residence at one time or another of Picasso, Modigliani, Matisse, and Chagall, who is buried there. The American writer James Baldwin lived there for 17 years until his death in 1987. We enjoyed our daytrip there very much.
Villefranche, Beaulieu, Cap Ferrat. We prefer the #15 bus, for its lovely view of the coast, but the train also goes (more quickly) to Villefranche, Beaulieu, Monaco, and Menton.
Antibes is a short train ride from Nice and is thoroughly lovely. The covered market, Old City, and Picasso Museum are among its many attractions. Wander the narrow "streets" and enjoy whatever you happen upon. Good restaurants and cafes.
