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It is using its expertise in other areas to get currency to buy food.
That's a very wonky way of saying "they deplete the environment elsewhere."
Again, you see economics.
I see what's happening to the ocean and rivers, the subsidence of the land in Americas salad bowl just a stones throw to the east of me; aquifers that aren't coming back...EVER!
The Central Valley in California subsides when groundwater is pumped faster than underground aquifers can be recharged. The Central Valley has been sinking at differing rates since the 1920s and is estimated to have sunk up to 28 feet. During drought years, the valley is prone to accelerated subsidence due to groundwater extraction.
Export agriculture is making big ag very wealthy. It ain't sustainable. At some point "China" is going to have to deal with that reality.